How can i waterproof fabric

The fabric should get darker. If any pools of wax come up, use your fingers to spread it evenly over all the fabric. Leave your fabric to set in a warm, dry place for at least 24 hours. If you notice a strong smell, leave it to air out before using it. Linseed oil Another natural product you can use to waterproof fabric is linseed oil.

Stretch your fabric over a frame to make it taut, and secure it with clips. Using a paintbrush, coat your fabric in linseed oil. Use plenty of oil to make sure it really penetrates the fabric. You can also mix the oil with beeswax to make it extra sturdy; if you do, use equal parts oil to wax, melted together in a stove pot. Leave it for 30 minutes to make sure the oil combines fully with the fabric.

Let the fabric dry for 24 hours in a warm, dry place. Washing powder and alum A slightly more intensive process is using alum - aluminumpotassiumsulphate - to waterproof fabric. First, add 4 ounces grams of beeswax and 4 ounces grams of paraffin wax to a double boiler and heat the waxes until they melt. Next, brush a thick layer of the wax onto the warmed-up fabric using a paintbrush, one small section at a time.

Turn a blow dryer on high and point it at the wax until it melts into the fabric. Let the fabric cool, then apply a second layer of wax if there are any uneven spots. Finally, let the wax cure for 24 hours.

You can also waterproof fabric using a waterproofing spray. For extra protection, apply seam sealer to all of the seams so no water gets through them. To waterproof your fabric using wax, read on!

Did this summary help you? Yes No. Random Article. Home Random Terms of Use. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. How to Waterproof Fabric. Explore this Article methods. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need.

Related Articles. Article Summary. Method 1. Plan to waterproof your fabric on a dry, windless day. You will be working with spray-on sealers, which are sensitive to humidity.

Also, if you are working outside and it is windy, you might get some dust embedded in your fabric. Clean the fabric if it is dirty. If the fabric cannot be washed, and it is only dusty or lightly soiled fabrics then clean it a vacuum or a brush. If the fabric is heavily soiled, then use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner. Make sure that the fabric is dry. You will be working sprays and sealers that repel water. If your fabric is in anyway damp or wet, the sprays and sealers will not stick.

Transfer the fabric to a well-ventilated area. Try to work outside, if you can. If you cannot work outside, then open up a window. You can also wear safety goggles and gloves if you have sensitive skin or bad allergies; the sprays and sealers you will be working with can be quite pungent.

Purchase a waterproofing spray and seam sealer. You can find them at an outdoor or camping supply store. If the fabric you will be waterproofing will be outside and in the sun a lot, then consider getting a spray that has UV protection as well. This will keep your fabric from fading. Waterproofing sprays and sealers will work great on nylons, canvas and leather.

Hold the can 6 to 8 inches Be sure to slightly overlap each stroke. Wait about for the spray to dry, then apply a second coat. Let the spray dry completely before using the fabric. Most waterproofing sprays will dry in about 4 hours, but you might want to read the directions on the can as each brand will be a little different.

Apply seam sealer to all of the seams. Seam sealer usually comes in a small bottle with an applicator on top. Simply roll the sealer over the seams while squeezing gently on the bottle. This will make the seams extra durable and ensure that no water gets inside. Method 2. Start with a clean piece of fabric. If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it. For dusty or lightly soiled fabrics that cannot be washed, use a vacuum or a brush.

For heavily soiled fabrics that cannot be washed, use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner. Mix 1 pound 0. You want the container to be large enough so that you can submerge all of your fabric in the detergent mixture.

Soak the fabric in the mixture until it is completely saturated. If parts of the fabric keep floating to the top, you can weigh them down with a glass jar or bottle. Hang the fabric to air-dry in the sun. Do not fold it over a hanger, or the two sides will stick to each other. Instead, clip the top of the fabric piece to a hanger. If the fabric is too big for a hanger, then stretch a long piece of string between two poles or trees, and clip the fabric to that.

You want the fabric to hang freely, in a single layer. Stir the solution to help the alum powder dissolve. You can buy alum powder at a grocery store. Soak the fabric in alum powder solution for at least 2 hours. If it floats to the top, then weigh it down with a glass jar or bottle. Hang the fabric in the sun to air-dry completely. Once again, make sure that the fabric is hanging freely.

Clip it to a hanger, or to a piece of string. Method 3. Understand that this may cause the fabric to darken. You will be saturating the fabric with turpentine-diluted oil. Oil in general tends to darken fabrics by a shade or two. This is something you might want to keep in mind.

Wash the fabric if it is dirty. If the fabric cannot be washed, and it's only a little dirty or dusty, then clean it with a vacuum or a brush. If the fabric cannot be washed and it is heavily soiled, then clean it using a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.

Allow the fabric to dry completely after you clean it. You will be working with waxes, oils, and other solutions that repel water. If your fabric is in anyway damp or wet, the solutions you will be using will not stick. If you cannot work outside, then keep a window open.

Turpentine can get quite pungent. Mix 1 cup ml of soybean oil with 4 ounces ml of turpentine. Pour everything into a durable plastic container and stir it with a wooden paint stirrer. You will be painting the mixture onto your fabric later using a large paintbrush. If you are working on a small piece of fabric, then you can pour everything into a plastic spray bottle and spray it on.

Close the bottle and shake it to mix everything together. Spread the fabric out onto a flat surface. Turpentine and oil can both stain porous surfaces such as wood and concrete.

If you are worried about this, you might want to protect your work surface with plastic tablecloth first. Don't use newspaper. Today, high-end apparel companies like Filson and Barbour still sell waxed outerwear—but it comes with a hefty price tag. Create a double boiler to melt the waxes by filling a saucepan with water, bringing it to a boil on the stovetop, then resting a metal bowl on top of the pan.

The space between the pan and the bowl will trap the heat needed to melt the wax in the bowl above. Place four ounces of beeswax pellets available in the candle-making section of an arts and crafts store in the metal bowl. Then, cut the four-ounce bar of paraffin wax into small chunks and add them to the pellets, stirring the two together until the chunks melt.

While the waxes liquefy, throw the item you wish to waterproof into the dryer if possible to warm the material. This will make the application process easier. Stir until all chunks of wax have melted, then apply the molten wax to the fabric in a thick layer using a one-inch paintbrush.

An inexpensive brush with stiff bristles provides the best results here. Work in one small section at a time until you have evenly covered the entire area. Turn a heat gun on at a low setting or a hair dryer on high, and point it toward the layer you just applied so that it melts the wax into the fabric.